Places to Eat in Phayao
Regardless the fact that you won’t see many Western tourists in Phayao and get the wrong impression that it is absolutely out of tourist trail, it is not. Phayao is a favourite destination among the weekending Thais what means that there is a good selection of local restaurants, many of which enjoy beautiful lakeside setting. Prices tend to be a bit on a touristy side, too, but still affordable. The local favourite is the catch of the day coming fresh from the lake.
A great night market comes alive every day at around 5.00pm on Rop Wiang Road, just south of the bus station. Countless of food stalls and pushcarts are the favourite dinner destination for almost every local willing to stay away from the most touristy and pricy lakefront.
All the classic Thai dishes that you can usually find on the market are not missing plus some more regional specialties like northern spicy sausages are available, too. Noodles, meat skewers, grilled chicken and a big variety of precooked food can be found here and everything will come super cheap with most of the dishes starting from THB30. Many of stalls arrange a couple of plastic tables by their side and the nearby 7/11 sells all the cold drinks that you need.
Local restaurants
The biggest concentration of restaurants, bars, cafes and pubs can be found on Chaykwan road that runs along the lake for roughly a km starting from the Pho Khun Ngam Mueang Monument. This is the most touristic area, but keep in mind that western tourism is not a big thing in Phayao, and almost all the visitors are Thai; so don’t expect too many English menus or English speaking staff. Prices here will be higher than anywhere else in town but the quality of the food is generally good and what you pay more for is the location, the better setting and often – some live music that will accompany your dinner.
By far the most popular food in this area is the local fish products with giant catfish and tilapia taking the lion share. Whether you want it grilled, fried or steamed thay have you covered – from smaller joints with plastic chair and tables to high-end restaurants with air-conditioned rooms, nice décor and at least someone amongn the staff speaking some basic English. A full fish starts from THB200 in the simplest places and can easily double in a fancy restaurant.
Moving just a few blocks away from the lake will take you to Khao Soi Sang Pean (Tha Kwan Rd, open only for lunch), a little noodle restaurants specializing in khao soi, a traditional northern Thai dish made of egg noodles with coconut milk curry sauce and served with pork or chicken. Their version contains less coconut milk than usual one making its taste deeper and less sweet. Other dishes are on the list, too; the more adventurous should not miss a chance to try a bowl of nam ngiaw, a noodles soup coming from the Burmese tradition which nowadays has become one of the most popular dishes in the northern Thai cuisine. The most characteristic ingredient is blocks of congealed blood that mix with hot broth giving your noodles and the meat of your choice a unique flavour.
Dining Out
For a chilled night out with good food, fantastic settings, great live music and cold beers head to So Good Bar and Restaurant located on the lakeside just a bit further north from Wat Si Khom Kham. It usually gets quite busy after 7.00pm so if you want to enjoy your dinner while it’s still quiet, go there a bit earlier, grab a table in the outside garden right on the lakeshore and choose something to eat from the large English menu with many Thai and some western options. A band will start playing an acoustic session after 8.00pm.
Cafes and Coffee Houses
Phayao has a growing number of trendy cafes serving art cappuccino and delicious slices of cakes to start your day the right way. Cupcake café on Chaykwan road offers a full English breakfast at THB150, too.