Sleepy and relaxed, Savannakhet

Food

You will surely eat well in Savannakhet – but we won’t promise you many fine wining and dining choices – except one. Enjoy your simple Lao offerings of rice or noodles and do not forget to give a try to local coffee – it is definitely one of the best in the whole region.

Street food

Cheap street eateries dot Savannakhet – wherever you go you are never too far from your usual fried rice or chicken rice, though be prepared to pay slightly more than in Thailand (LAK15,000).

Our absolute favourite for street food is the night market in front of St. Teresa’s Church. Som tams (papaya salads), chicken or pork skewers, French fries and some other westernised dishes which remind you of the colonial influence are eaten at simple plastic tables. Dishes are between LAK10,000-15,000, fresh fruit shakes – LAK20,000, cold Birlao – LAK10,000. With the handsome facade of the church in the vicinity and elegantly dilapidating colonial mansions around the square the setting cannot be beaten.

If market eats do not appeal to you that much, just walk around the church square and choose one of the neater restaurants in its southern or northern part.

Lao Food

Though there is a riverfront in Savannakhet with mind-blowing sunsets over the Mekong, we could hardly find any worth visiting place by the water other that simple wooden shacks serving cold beer and probably some meat skewers and som tams. The locals enjoy hot pot restaurants along the river, though.

There are simple family restaurants serving a slightly more expensive fare than usual street cafes. We found Restaurant Saenna Banhao a comfortable place to visit. Run by two wives, it does feel as if you were at home. If you stay anywhere in the vicinity, e.g. at Souavannavong Guesthouse or Savanpathana Guesthouse, try them.

Western and International Food

For many foreigners who would occasionally find themselves in Savannakhet – mostly just with the purpose of applying for the Thai visa at the Thai Consulate in Savannakhet which is a far way less crowded than the main Royal Thai Embassy in Vientiane – the acquaintance with Savannakhet food scene has for a long time been limited to a cup of great Lao coffee (LAK16,000) accompanied by the equally great Lao baguettes (LAK3,000) at Cafe Chez Bounne. The perennial favourite won the hearts not only with several western items in the menu including pizza and pasta but with power outlets and free Wi-Fi.

Located in Chaimueang Road, one and a half block from 9W, it remains within a walking distance from many riverside guesthouses, though a bit farther than the next two venues in out list.

If you are looking for the best place for breakfast in Savannakhet, head right to Lin’s Cafe. Their huge American breakfast set for LAK40,000 is an absolute stunner! Accompanied by freshly brewed coffee and a fruit platter it is also a great value. Lin’s moved to another location some time ago and now sits at the intersection of route 9W immediately north of St. Teresa’s Church, but in many guidebooks it is still featured at the old address.

They also have coffee and lunch menu, free Wi-Fi and accept both kips and Thai baht.

Another popular spot with backpackers is Chai Dee. You can find their breakfast fliers at some of the guesthouses around town. The vibe is very relaxed there and the Japanese owner is very friendly and welcoming, plus they have a long list of – surprise! – Japanese food in their menu. Breakfast is served for LAK35,000 but we definitely prefer Lin’s in this category.

Chai Dee is located in Ratsavongsouk Road, one block north of the church.

Cafes and Coffee Houses

If you close your eyes and then by some magic open them in Macchiato de Coffee you will never ever guess you are in Savannakhet – or in Laos! Yes, Savannakhet now has its own stylish city cafe with an excellent dining menu and a great choice of smoothies, cocktails and coffee. Frankly speaking, we were not just impressed, we were downright knocked down! The cafe has somewhat strange opening hours from 7am till 5pm but for lunch or a daytime coffee break does it job excellently. Coffee is LAK25,000 but it definitely costs it.

Macchiato de Coffee is 100m before you reach the Thai consulate along 9W.

For more local Lao coffee head to Dao Tearoom in Sotthaou Road, three blocks east of 9W. They sell a variety of duty-free items including alcohol and Lao coffee, both grounded and in beans (250g – LAK52,000), which you can taste in their open terrace.

Convenience Stores

7/11, which is so helpful in Thailand, has not yet done its way to Savannakhet, but you can stock up on munchies at its local counterpart run by an expart-Lao family. Located at the corner of Ratsavongseuk and Sotthanou Road, it is arguably the most useful address in Savannakhet.